Current work in progress.

[PaulC]

Modified bilge pump motors.

[tazdevl77]

Paul, if you wouldn't mind when you get a chance.....show us how you modified them in the Thrusters forum...thanks. Tim

[PaulC]

Will do. Here is the run down as to what I did to be able to adapt them for props. The type that I bought that where super cheap in my opinion $22 dollars american had an inner and outer hull so to speak. I first cut the outside hull off and discarded it since it is of no value to me. I then went and found ready made prop adapters that are made for RC airplane motors that fit my shaft size. But, instead of airplane props I put RC boat props on instead. This was all done because I don't have much of a machine shop. I then took and hand crafted four Kort nozzles out of PVC by taking an inch and a half PVC clean out plug and replaced the center wing-nut with a carriage bolt and nut. From there I took 1 1/2 in. PVC pipe attached it to the plug and tightened down the nut that expands the plug stuck it my electric drill. I then turned on the electric drill and in a sense made my own little lathe but instead of using knives I used sand paper of various degrees to get the shape and smoothness that I thought was right. Below, is a picture of one of the four finished motors. To mount them to my frame I took 1/2 inch PVC caps took them to my sanding drum to give it a concave surface that the motor could rest on. Then with a little drilling, and cutting with the Dremel Tool I have motor mounds that just need to be bolted on to the ROV frame. The last thing is to attach the thrusters to the mount, and that is done as you can see from the photos with pipe clamps. In fact almost everything that gets attached to the ROV frame is mounted in this manner: lights, thrusters, or any other sensors that I decide to put on, and all of the bolts and cross struts are made out of marine grade aircraft aluminum to prevent corrosion. The stainless steel pipe clamps don't actually touch the aluminum in anyway so there again don't need to worry about galvanic corrosion either.

[Spadinator]

Good Work!!

[PaulC]

Thanks for the response Spadinator it means a lot to hear what people think. Not that I think that my work is outstanding, but I have been putting a lot of work into this particular design of ROV. My main goal with this design is adaptability. When done I should be able to "plug and play" any of the motors, or sensors without having to open the two main housings. In addition, I am hoping that when done I will also be able to remove the tether and change it if needed or want to extend it. I have spent close to two years in the development stage of this particular ROV. The only tools I have in my shop are a couple of hand drills, a jig saw, circular saw, three sanders, a grinder, a Dremel tool, and finally a small drill press. So as you all can see this ROV is truly made by hand, but coming up soon I will have to seek out someone who has a mill and a lathe. That is just for the housing end caps.

[PaulC]

Still trying to find a place local to locate the main housing that are made of polycarbonate and delrin. Hopefully something will surface soon so that I can try and get this ROV moving again. Puns intended. I know that I can get the parts that I need from McMaster, but my wife has told me that I have to get all my parts local if at all possible.

[Spadinator]

How did you do your shaft seals?

[PaulC]

Well Spadinator,

I actually didn't use any seals other than the ones that came already built into the housing of the bilge motor.

[Spadinator]

Ok cool......I really like your set up. I am currently working on my hull but thrusters will be next.

[Fogel]

If you manage to get a hold on all the peices you want, this is going to be a cool looking ROV!