D-ROV
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
D-ROV
This is my first rov project and I'm very excited! this is really all i have so far, but i'm going to add motors and flotation. for thrusters I'm using 4 500gph bilge pump cartridges. and for the cameras im using a radio shack web cam. by the way the "d" in D-ROV is short for "W" for wilder's rov.
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- Assembly1.jpg (117.43 KiB) Viewed 6440 times
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- reality. the tape is only temporary while i figure out where to mount every thing
- blarggg 030.JPG (430.73 KiB) Viewed 6632 times
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- the autocaded model of my finished rov (hopefully)
- Image.jpg (22.36 KiB) Viewed 6632 times
Last edited by puzzler300 on Jan 18th, 2013, 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
Re: D-ROV
Just an update:
I have redesigned the camera housing because my original was too leaky. I don't have any pictures yet but I do have a PDF drawing file that is pretty applicable for any housing.
I have redesigned the camera housing because my original was too leaky. I don't have any pictures yet but I do have a PDF drawing file that is pretty applicable for any housing.
- Attachments
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- camera housing 2.pdf
- (232.51 KiB) Downloaded 563 times
Re: D-ROV
Looking good, if you have any problems with your new housing leaking you might want to add an o-ring in between the glass and the housing to form a better seal, (you might need to cut a groove for the o-ring but it night work without it too) when you screw on the cap the glass will compress the o-ring and should form a better seal.
-Steve
-Steve
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
Re: D-ROV
Ok, cool thank, I'll be sure to do that.
Re: D-ROV
One other thing.... (assuming your using PVC) be sure to wrap the threads of the end cap with at least 6 layers/windings of Teflon tape (or use some other kind of sealant) the threads of PVC are usually the cause of leaks in most PVC housings.
You also might have to experiment with your horizontal thruster angles, if you angle them to much the Rov will turn too quickly.
-Steve
You also might have to experiment with your horizontal thruster angles, if you angle them to much the Rov will turn too quickly.
-Steve
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
Re: D-ROV
Will plumber's tape work?
and about the thrusters, with my new camera housing it gives me more room to mount the motors more straight.
and about the thrusters, with my new camera housing it gives me more room to mount the motors more straight.
Re: D-ROV
As long as it's meant for PVC I don't see why not.
-Steve
-Steve
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
Re: D-ROV
Update!
I've changed the orientation of the frame a bit, and changed the housing. the problem with the last housing was that it leaked a lot around the hatch. So This should be better. Hopefully. I've also been working on motors a little (viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1050)
Another thing that I have discovered is the use of Shapelock plastic for my ROV. It heats up and becomes mold-able and then cools and hardens. it really is very nice, especially for water proofing.
Also, I have a friend who is very good at electronics and programming so we decided that we could use serial communication to control the ROV opposed to using switches. It would be excellent to be able to do this in order to keep the tether down to a reasonable size.
I've changed the orientation of the frame a bit, and changed the housing. the problem with the last housing was that it leaked a lot around the hatch. So This should be better. Hopefully. I've also been working on motors a little (viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1050)
Another thing that I have discovered is the use of Shapelock plastic for my ROV. It heats up and becomes mold-able and then cools and hardens. it really is very nice, especially for water proofing.
Also, I have a friend who is very good at electronics and programming so we decided that we could use serial communication to control the ROV opposed to using switches. It would be excellent to be able to do this in order to keep the tether down to a reasonable size.
- Attachments
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- IMG_0841.JPG (271.22 KiB) Viewed 6134 times
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- IMG_0840.JPG (362.1 KiB) Viewed 6134 times
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- IMG_0837.JPG (647.53 KiB) Viewed 6134 times
- puzzler300
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Jan 2nd, 2013, 12:26 pm
- Location: St. Cloud, Mn
Re: D-ROV
So after this year of inactivity, I've finally gotten back into the project. My plan is to use four 700 kv bell-type brushless motors, corresponding 30 Amp car ESCs, two Arduino Uno's (one on the surface and one on-board), a PS2 Shield/controller, and two RS485 shields. For display I'm using a 700 TVL board camera, two baluns, an old monitor screen, driver, and a BNC to VGA converter.
My entire goal for this ROV is to be able to reach a depth of 600'. That means combating 280 Pounds of pressure, therefore I'm trying to make the design as incompressible as possible. I'm potting my camera, so there will only be a tiny airspace between the lens and the clear piece of acrylic I'm going to epoxy it too. For a housing I'm using some four inch ABS pipe pieces and filling it with mineral oil. For power I'm using lipo batteries linked in parallel.
As of now, I have nearly all of my components except for the RS485 shield, LEDs, and a camera. The only thing I need to figure out is a final hardware configuration, how to water proof my lipos, and the Arduino code.
Oh, for a tether I'm using cat5e cable, two wires for the camera, two wires for the arduino.
http://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-shield-arduino.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 700kv.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... verse.html
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/sto ... duct=13203
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-700TVL-1-3-C ... 566484392d
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12965
Forgot to mention, I did a bunch of kort tests, and honestly for how small and light my ROV is. I don't think I'll need one. I might print a couple off simply to keep the props out of weeds and such. If you want some though, give me an airfoil and your motor dimensions, I'll try and print you some.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1464&start=10
My entire goal for this ROV is to be able to reach a depth of 600'. That means combating 280 Pounds of pressure, therefore I'm trying to make the design as incompressible as possible. I'm potting my camera, so there will only be a tiny airspace between the lens and the clear piece of acrylic I'm going to epoxy it too. For a housing I'm using some four inch ABS pipe pieces and filling it with mineral oil. For power I'm using lipo batteries linked in parallel.
As of now, I have nearly all of my components except for the RS485 shield, LEDs, and a camera. The only thing I need to figure out is a final hardware configuration, how to water proof my lipos, and the Arduino code.
Oh, for a tether I'm using cat5e cable, two wires for the camera, two wires for the arduino.
http://www.robotshop.com/en/ps2-shield-arduino.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 700kv.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... verse.html
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/sto ... duct=13203
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-700TVL-1-3-C ... 566484392d
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12965
Forgot to mention, I did a bunch of kort tests, and honestly for how small and light my ROV is. I don't think I'll need one. I might print a couple off simply to keep the props out of weeds and such. If you want some though, give me an airfoil and your motor dimensions, I'll try and print you some.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1464&start=10
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- My housing
- Untitled.png (358.82 KiB) Viewed 5118 times