Rov Reboot (3D Printed Rov)
Posted: Jul 13th, 2015, 12:06 pm
This is going to be a reboot of an simple ROV I started years ago Seen Here.
The original design was suppose to be something simple a beginner could build while at the same time I was trying to make a really small Rov because it's just something I wanted to do. My initial design had a major flaw where I couldn't get positive buoyancy using PVC chambers like I wanted to (without going to 3" pipe) so the project kept getting thrown on the back burner. Trying to get motivated again to get active with ROV's I recently started toying with the idea of using fiberglass covered blue insulation board for buoyancy. I knew it's not a great idea but I though it might be somewhat doable seeing as the Rov only has a 100' tether. After carving out a float out of foam it was pointed out in another thread that even at depths of around 65' that approach wouldn't really work (I'm just glad I saw that thread before starting the fiberglass part.) so now I'm going in a slightly different direction that may or may not work.
I am going to reuse the same simple thruster/control system I all ready built (which is highlight here.) and just design a new frame. The frame design will be very similar but this time it will be 3D printed because I want to test out that approach to see if it's a viable option for us DIY'ers.
Below is the start of some initial designs ideas I am working on but will likely change along the building process. The bilge pump thrusters are going to be paired with a modified version of the Kort nozzle I was working on before. I modified the original design to be a bit stronger and to incorporate the thruster mount directly into the nozzle itself. The pump cartridges should insert and lock into the housing much like the original bilge pumps they were designed for. The side plates for the frame will be roughly 9.5" x 7.5" which is just about the largest dimensions I can print on my Makergear M2 Printer. The thruster housings will mount to the side rails with a few 6/32" nuts and bolts. For the main buoyancy I want to try and print a outer shell and then fill it with a microballon/epoxy mix. I had to design the float to be in three pieces because of size restrictions of the printer. One end cap will be glued on then filled with the mixture and then the other end cap should seal everything up. If this method does not work I will carve the same shape out of the foam available from BlueRobotics. Hopefully this will be enough buoyancy and I don't run into the same problem as before. This is the overall initial design, a lot will probably change once I figure out what camera and other goodies will be added.
-Steve
The original design was suppose to be something simple a beginner could build while at the same time I was trying to make a really small Rov because it's just something I wanted to do. My initial design had a major flaw where I couldn't get positive buoyancy using PVC chambers like I wanted to (without going to 3" pipe) so the project kept getting thrown on the back burner. Trying to get motivated again to get active with ROV's I recently started toying with the idea of using fiberglass covered blue insulation board for buoyancy. I knew it's not a great idea but I though it might be somewhat doable seeing as the Rov only has a 100' tether. After carving out a float out of foam it was pointed out in another thread that even at depths of around 65' that approach wouldn't really work (I'm just glad I saw that thread before starting the fiberglass part.) so now I'm going in a slightly different direction that may or may not work.
I am going to reuse the same simple thruster/control system I all ready built (which is highlight here.) and just design a new frame. The frame design will be very similar but this time it will be 3D printed because I want to test out that approach to see if it's a viable option for us DIY'ers.
Below is the start of some initial designs ideas I am working on but will likely change along the building process. The bilge pump thrusters are going to be paired with a modified version of the Kort nozzle I was working on before. I modified the original design to be a bit stronger and to incorporate the thruster mount directly into the nozzle itself. The pump cartridges should insert and lock into the housing much like the original bilge pumps they were designed for. The side plates for the frame will be roughly 9.5" x 7.5" which is just about the largest dimensions I can print on my Makergear M2 Printer. The thruster housings will mount to the side rails with a few 6/32" nuts and bolts. For the main buoyancy I want to try and print a outer shell and then fill it with a microballon/epoxy mix. I had to design the float to be in three pieces because of size restrictions of the printer. One end cap will be glued on then filled with the mixture and then the other end cap should seal everything up. If this method does not work I will carve the same shape out of the foam available from BlueRobotics. Hopefully this will be enough buoyancy and I don't run into the same problem as before. This is the overall initial design, a lot will probably change once I figure out what camera and other goodies will be added.
-Steve