MakiBox 3D printer...
Posted: Mar 6th, 2015, 11:15 am
I've finally taken the plunge on a 3D printer. I've always thought I'd make my own from scratch but when a clearance sale came up for the MakiBox it tempted me.
£179 for the LT version or £229 for the HT version it seemed not to bad.. I'm not sure what the main differences are between the two except only the HT has a heated bed.
It comes in a flat pack and took between 2 to 3 hours to assemble..
From the get go it can be seen as not award wining in design but should do as an entry level printer. The print area is a little small but again ok.
I tried to tune the back lash out of the X and Y drives but to no avail. The videos showing you how to do it state to loosen one screw off and tighten the other I've done this until the thread have started to give. It is better but still noticeable.
Installed a couple of excellent programs
Repetier host
and Slic3r
Set my connection up as com port 3 and got talking to the printer.. yeaaaa
Pressing the buttons on the screen all the axis moved , stopped when they should and din't collide with the print head so ..
I did a quick sketch in Autocad inventor ...exported it as an STL file...
Sliced it up with Slic3r using the downloaded suggested setting file for white ABS...pressed go annnnd
The show stopper..
The heated printer heat doesn't heat... there is a temp sensor on it and I guess this is the problem as the temp on the PC screen states -37 degrees so I'm thinking the temp control algorithm probably throws a wobbly if it sees out of range temperatures....
I sent an email to the supplier and got a speedy reply. These heads are notoriously un reliable so he will send me a replacement or for an extra £30 send me the super duper head. Doing some research it appears lots of folk have had problems with this head and a lot of folk swear by the E3D head.. So I replied asking for the E3D head.. He said he'll send the order link and discount code (for the duff head) later that day but two days later I'm still waiting..
Once I get it going I'll probably print some more bits for it.. I'll change the X, Y, Z axis and printer head block and put in linear bearings rather than the plastic molded ones it comes with.. I can get a set of 10 bearing on ebay for £5 so not really sure why they weren't used in the first place.. It will transform my bask lash problems (I hope) . I'll probably also replace the plastic ball screw nuts with proper metal ones..
I even though if it all goes well after a time I may even get longer X and Y balls screws and extend the print area to A4 (A3 would be perfect) sized.. I'd have to make my own heated bed for this though.. Also int he future a laser adapter would be a handy addition to be able to cut card and or thin plastic for prototyping, maybe even a bit of laser etching..
Anyway there you have it... I'll keep this post informed as I'm sure this wont be the end of the set up problems so I may be asking for help and indeed maybe this thread will help others...
£179 for the LT version or £229 for the HT version it seemed not to bad.. I'm not sure what the main differences are between the two except only the HT has a heated bed.
It comes in a flat pack and took between 2 to 3 hours to assemble..
From the get go it can be seen as not award wining in design but should do as an entry level printer. The print area is a little small but again ok.
I tried to tune the back lash out of the X and Y drives but to no avail. The videos showing you how to do it state to loosen one screw off and tighten the other I've done this until the thread have started to give. It is better but still noticeable.
Installed a couple of excellent programs
Repetier host
and Slic3r
Set my connection up as com port 3 and got talking to the printer.. yeaaaa
Pressing the buttons on the screen all the axis moved , stopped when they should and din't collide with the print head so ..
I did a quick sketch in Autocad inventor ...exported it as an STL file...
Sliced it up with Slic3r using the downloaded suggested setting file for white ABS...pressed go annnnd
The show stopper..
The heated printer heat doesn't heat... there is a temp sensor on it and I guess this is the problem as the temp on the PC screen states -37 degrees so I'm thinking the temp control algorithm probably throws a wobbly if it sees out of range temperatures....
I sent an email to the supplier and got a speedy reply. These heads are notoriously un reliable so he will send me a replacement or for an extra £30 send me the super duper head. Doing some research it appears lots of folk have had problems with this head and a lot of folk swear by the E3D head.. So I replied asking for the E3D head.. He said he'll send the order link and discount code (for the duff head) later that day but two days later I'm still waiting..
Once I get it going I'll probably print some more bits for it.. I'll change the X, Y, Z axis and printer head block and put in linear bearings rather than the plastic molded ones it comes with.. I can get a set of 10 bearing on ebay for £5 so not really sure why they weren't used in the first place.. It will transform my bask lash problems (I hope) . I'll probably also replace the plastic ball screw nuts with proper metal ones..
I even though if it all goes well after a time I may even get longer X and Y balls screws and extend the print area to A4 (A3 would be perfect) sized.. I'd have to make my own heated bed for this though.. Also int he future a laser adapter would be a handy addition to be able to cut card and or thin plastic for prototyping, maybe even a bit of laser etching..
Anyway there you have it... I'll keep this post informed as I'm sure this wont be the end of the set up problems so I may be asking for help and indeed maybe this thread will help others...