DROV-bubbles rov
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
You are in the wrong forum. This is for homebuilt ROVs. Yours is professional !
Simply amazing.
Simply amazing.
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
So after four of my welds failed I weld again the four leaks and decide to change the test method.
I add a pressure gauge and fill the hull with water. I put compressed air from my compressor up to 8 bar(this is my compressor limit) in the hull and let it for 24 hours. After a day only one of my welds fail. I have to do it again!!!
I add a pressure gauge and fill the hull with water. I put compressed air from my compressor up to 8 bar(this is my compressor limit) in the hull and let it for 24 hours. After a day only one of my welds fail. I have to do it again!!!
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
PART TWO:Electronics
I couldn't imagine that all wiring is such a pain.
Since I have to seperate spaces in my hull I had to seperate the electronics. At the front part I place the rov control board ,a step down converter ,lv filter and fuse for Gopro
I couldn't imagine that all wiring is such a pain.
Since I have to seperate spaces in my hull I had to seperate the electronics. At the front part I place the rov control board ,a step down converter ,lv filter and fuse for Gopro
- Attachments
-
- image.jpg (104.43 KiB) Viewed 4935 times
-
- image.jpg (93.62 KiB) Viewed 4935 times
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
And this is the front part for camera ,led board and on-off switch
At the rear part I place a distribution board(so many wires ),a small fuse board for the three thrusters and control board and ESC with extra heat sink
Next thing is to put them all together and see if everything works properly and make the battery canisters !!Re: DROV-bubbles rov
yeah, looks great!
UV-active PVC?
UV-active PVC?
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
Yes.It was the only spare part I hadROVER3D wrote:yeah, looks great!
UV-active PVC?
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
Maybe there is a new area of ROV-building. ROV case-modding!
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
Looks damm nice. I really need to improve my welding skills.
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
After a few tests and a lot of cracks at motor mount welds I decide to throw away the aluminium hull and make one from a solid piece of derlin.Aluminium lost all its properties after so much welding
I will keep the aluminium end caps modify the led lights and change only the hull. So after four hours new hull is ready!!!I pressure test it and everything is ok!!!Plus I finished the battery canisters and led light modification Next thing is to figure out how to make a waterproof bulkhead penetrator for motors and lights since I cant use cable glands because I made wrong size threads at the hull
I will keep the aluminium end caps modify the led lights and change only the hull. So after four hours new hull is ready!!!I pressure test it and everything is ok!!!Plus I finished the battery canisters and led light modification Next thing is to figure out how to make a waterproof bulkhead penetrator for motors and lights since I cant use cable glands because I made wrong size threads at the hull
Re: DROV-bubbles rov
After I carried out several tests I finally decide how I will make my cable penetrators.All are based at sthone approach with few modifications.
I potted stip stranded wire in a metal gland with oring and pressure test it.Failed,the water pass through the wire jackets
Then I tried the same way but I solder stranded wires to make them solid and test it.Failed again,the water still pass through wire!
The last try was to take solid pieces of copper wire ,remove the jacket and make threads so epoxy could grab better on it.I solder then to the motor wires clean them and metal glands with acetone and pot them with epoxy. After a pressure test at 8 bars for 24 hours the potted glands is perfect with no leak at all. So since this is a success I made my penetrators the same way.
I made threaded pieces of stainless steel since I cant use the metal gland shell and finished all the wire soldering. I use pieces of silicone jacket from rc wire so I can make enough space between solid wires for epoxy to pass easily
I potted stip stranded wire in a metal gland with oring and pressure test it.Failed,the water pass through the wire jackets
Then I tried the same way but I solder stranded wires to make them solid and test it.Failed again,the water still pass through wire!
The last try was to take solid pieces of copper wire ,remove the jacket and make threads so epoxy could grab better on it.I solder then to the motor wires clean them and metal glands with acetone and pot them with epoxy. After a pressure test at 8 bars for 24 hours the potted glands is perfect with no leak at all. So since this is a success I made my penetrators the same way.
I made threaded pieces of stainless steel since I cant use the metal gland shell and finished all the wire soldering. I use pieces of silicone jacket from rc wire so I can make enough space between solid wires for epoxy to pass easily