ROV progress

[fireslayer26]

Cool, thanks. So you apply this before and after your dives then?

Also, from what I understand, most JR receivers have DSC. Shouldn't I then, be able to use a different receiver than the R700? Say one with more channels? Like a JR NER 649s 9 channel receiver. I know this one has DSC.

[Mgbss]

I just bought this cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360679346694?ss ... 1423.l2649

And an R700 receiver. I believe the cable has a female servo connector on the end of it with 2 connections in it. A ground and PPM signal wire if I'm not mistaken. I'm guessing I would just have to connect a twisted pair from a cat5 cable and run it down to the ROV and connect it to the battery socket on the receiver according to your diagram on page 1? Also, what kind of servo relay do you use for your lights? Have a link to the lights you used?

Thanks!

The above mention wire is only half of what is needed to do the factory Jr hook up, The above wire plugs into the Jr Pa 0001 and that plugs into the RX battery and the Rx making the DSC complete, At least that is what I came up with in trying find the harness needed.

So now I have a question, My Rx battery plug has all 3 wires in it Y-R-B the yellow is not hooked to the battery but is in the plug, so couldn't I just hook the PPM signal to the yellow wire and then just splice the ground into the black, I think this is what the 2 harnesses above (jrpa0001 and Jrpa132) accomplish I am just skipping the switch, or am I missing something.

Also what is the BEC

So with the above(biker bones) diagram the Rx gets power from the 3 wire plug that comes from the speed control???? And then cut the red (middle wire) from the 3 wire plug on the other speed controls??

[bikerbones1968]

Your right on the money Mgbss. You only need the two wires, the center pin on the RX BAT port is not used. The switch is not required if you use the ppm and ground from the TX to directly feed signal to the RX. I said this elsewhere but any DSC compatible RX will work provided its for your brand of radio.
http://www.basicmicro.com/Radio-Control ... _p_44.html

The servo relay I use is this one.

b0096_power_relay_rc_servo_switch.jpg (37.07 KiB) Viewed 5102 times

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Cool-WHITE ... 4610028d60

The LED lights are these

$(KGrHqF,!q8FHngfiL1uBR9o-+ze7Q~~60_3.jpg (53.78 KiB) Viewed 5102 times

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150W-DC-DC-Boos ... 2ec9408da8

The step-up converter to power the LEDS are these.

$T2eC16Z,!)8E9s4l8!0IBRrYJUYFMw~~60_1.jpg (40.76 KiB) Viewed 5102 times

[Mgbss]

Bikerbones

The basic Micro relay that is what you are turning your outside lights on and off with? Does that plug into the Rx

I found a switch on Hobby King ID:LUM-ONF it says that its good for 10 amps and 30 volt this should also work I think, says works as an on/off after 50% on any channel

Have you gotten your project in the water yet? If not I hope you are close

Thanks again for the help

[bikerbones1968]

Yes it plugs into the RX on a spare channel. IE channel 5 in my case the gear switch. I am actually using it to switch on and off the LED power supply (line side) About 4 Amps. I have been in the water a few times, not happy with my tether not being neutraly bouyant. Trying to source a better thether from sebotix or video ray. Also my dive video sucked. The water was so saturated with alge I couldn't see Sh!t. Been so busy with other projects I havent updated the build thread to show all that has been done. Winter is coming and I will get back to some updates for everyone and some ice dives planned in clearer water.

[ROVER3D]

The step-up converter to power the LEDS are these.

PLEASE (for everyone who will read this):

"Power source considerations

The voltage versus current characteristics of an LED are much like any diode. Current is approximately an exponential function of voltage according to the Shockley diode equation, so a small voltage change may result in a large change in current. If the voltage is below the threshold or on-voltage no current will flow and the result is an unlit LED. If the voltage is too high the current will go above the maximum rating, heating and potentially destroying the LED.

It is therefore important that the power source gives the right current. LEDs should only be connected to constant-current sources. Series resistors are a simple way to passively stabilize the LED current. An active constant current regulator is commonly used for high power LEDs, stabilizing light output over a wide range of input voltages which could increase the useful life of batteries. Low drop-out (LDO) constant current regulators also allow the total LED voltage to be a higher fraction of the power supply voltage. Switched-mode power supplies are used in some LED flashlights."

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_power_sources)

It is therefore important that the power source gives the right current.

So you need a constant-current-source, not an adjustable voltage step-up converter!!!

[bikerbones1968]

I am aware of what you should use. This is better suited for the job I suppose http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-100W-Cons ... 27d73e0f72

But with that said I have operated two 100watt 5600k LED's directly from a basic DC to Dc step-up converter as above without the constant current portion of a driver circuit for close to 40 hours of combined run time and without issue or degradation of the LED chips. I am operating exactly at the minimum forward working voltage for the LED's. It works this way and as you stated we should be using a form of constant current control.

[fireslayer26]

Bikerbones- where did you get your 6" PVC pipe flange? Also, did you get your clear dome from cleardomes.com? What were the specs? And how are you planning to seal the back end of the housing where you insert the electronics?

Thanks!

[bikerbones1968]

Global plastics for the dome.
http://www.globalplastics.ca/domes.htm

The flange at a commercial plumbing supply place.

The back end is sealed with one O-ring, a flat acrylic plate, a flange housing and a few stainless steel twist clasps. The deeper you go the tighter the seal.
I will try to get time tomorrow to post a pic.

[fireslayer26]

Were you able to take a couple pics of the rear seal? Open, closed, and the parts?

Thanks