After the relative success of my micro ROV, i've decided to take the plunge and make something a little larger
I'm currently writing the arduino code for the system, using the same "Easy Transfer" Library as KR2_diving's ROV to shuttle data around.
Controller,
An old quadcopter toy controller, fitted with an arduino nano to read joysticks and switches/buttons. I did consider going down the PS2 route, but all the videos i see online seem to show around half a second latency, i think using the PS2 controller will be pretty processor hungry compared to a basic analog to digital conversion.
Topside,
Repurposed Peli case, with an Arduino MEGA on account of it's 4 serial ports, with a 20x4 LCD screen for telemetry readout. possibly other buttons,knobs and flashy/noisey things too as i see fit.
I'm contemplating giving the 20x4 LCD it's own Arduino Uno, i have one spare, and it'd leave the MEGA free to talk to the controller and ROV
Telemetery must have......
** Heading
** Depth
Tether
Tether will be the obligatory cat5e cable probably encased in hollow poly rope, 300M , 4 cores used for full duplex comms with the sub via MAX485 modules, 2 cores for analog video 2 cores "spare".
Subside
Class E (16 Bar) 4" PVC solventweld tubing for the atmospheric housing, Arduino Mega controller, talking to the Topside Mega, i'm currently looking at an option to relay depth (I've sourced a 0-5v pressure sensor already!) and heading via an I2c module i was due to fit to one of my quadcopters.
I'll be doing my hull penetrations a little differently to most builds i see here, I'll be installing an oil filled junction box, slightly compensated (not 100% sure how that will happen yet, i'll either build a compensator, or fit a bladder to the junction box and slightly pressurize) then to the hull penetrator. the thinking is, that if i do spring a leak, it should only be oil that leaks into the hull, saving the electronics from a briney death.
doing the penetrations that way also means i can make/break connections in the junction box, and not have to redo a potted penetrator or try to seal a connector. i'll be able to use very basic wiring glands too.
possibly a single function grabber for the ROV too
Build So Far...........
14/07/15
First Trial of Arduino Code and actuating a thruster over serial......... Controller > TTL/Serial > Topside > TTL/Serial > ROV > PWM Thruster Output (full 3 channel mix)
BindoRov Mk2.........
Re: BindoRov Mk2.........
A short video showing my test tonight.
The ESC settings need playing with, however i'm really pleased with the outcome.
The ESC settings need playing with, however i'm really pleased with the outcome.
- KR2_Diving
- Posts: 391
- Joined: Aug 30th, 2012, 11:43 am
- Location: Currently: NW Suburbs of Chicago. Originally: NE Wisconsin
Re: BindoRov Mk2.........
Sounds like a great project! Very eager to see how things work out for you!
I also like your logic on ditching the PS2 controller... i hvae been thinking the same recently, as the controller I have is nice and familiar, however, it is the off brand and does not give me the accuracy i would like with buttons and joysticks...
I have also been toying with upgrading to an MEGA on the Topside. Very eager to see how this all works out!
Keep us posted!
I also like your logic on ditching the PS2 controller... i hvae been thinking the same recently, as the controller I have is nice and familiar, however, it is the off brand and does not give me the accuracy i would like with buttons and joysticks...
I have also been toying with upgrading to an MEGA on the Topside. Very eager to see how this all works out!
Keep us posted!
Re: BindoRov Mk2.........
Hi Ryan.
Yeah the controller works pretty well, I had 2 lying around 1 from a colleague that lost his quadcopter, and I had one that broke.
I took the centring stick from one and replaced the non centering stick on the other (rc flight controllers have a non centering stick for throttle)
I just cut the + and - tracks to the pots and wired them directly to the vcc and gnd terminals, and use the on/off switch for a thruster enable/disable switch using the INPUT_PULLUP pin mode so only 2 wires needed and no pull down resistor required.
Thruster enable/disable only sends a signal of 90 when disabled to all escs at the moment, however I want to hard disconnect all escs via a relay of some sort for the full build.
This is the exact remote I'm using, though mine were surplus....
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hubsan-X4-Transmi ... nav=SEARCH
Yeah the controller works pretty well, I had 2 lying around 1 from a colleague that lost his quadcopter, and I had one that broke.
I took the centring stick from one and replaced the non centering stick on the other (rc flight controllers have a non centering stick for throttle)
I just cut the + and - tracks to the pots and wired them directly to the vcc and gnd terminals, and use the on/off switch for a thruster enable/disable switch using the INPUT_PULLUP pin mode so only 2 wires needed and no pull down resistor required.
Thruster enable/disable only sends a signal of 90 when disabled to all escs at the moment, however I want to hard disconnect all escs via a relay of some sort for the full build.
This is the exact remote I'm using, though mine were surplus....
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Hubsan-X4-Transmi ... nav=SEARCH