Homebuilt ROVs Forum

u might want to think about putting some bracing between the "feet". as soon as you add weight and buoyancy all of that is going to flex and through off your controls and possibly even break it. pvc is ok, but I found that it flex's alot. looks cool tho.

so i wired capacitors in but the lights still go out when the motors are turned on, actually when it is underwater they stay out.

anyone know what size capacitors i should be using???

this is what i was thinking, but you might want to take a walk around a toy store and see what you can find. Also depending on the size you want, you could go to a bubble gum machine and use one of those plastic domes you get the toy in.

i remember when i was a kid there were those toy vacuum cleaners with the ball inside the clear dome. Maybe something like that\???
what have you tried so far?

A capacitor sounds like a good idea, why would you want a resistor tho? i thought you already had the correct voltage?

another test dive and i found a few leaks, and fried some relays. oh well. Camera arrived today so I will start hooking that up this weekend aswell.

If you really wanna keep the bottles you could always try and fill them with foam???

I use the same thing, I have access to power where I use my rov.
also is that the sony ccd 1/3 from hobby king? if so the voltage is "Input voltage: 9~12.6V"

I am a paramedic so I have easy access to these, But I used what is called a sam splint http://www.sammedical.com/sam_splint.html its basically i mold-able piece of metal covered in foam that i cut to fit directly in the center (snugly) and fits the length of the tube so when the end cap is screwed ...

If you are using a car battery or deep cycle battery ("12v") then you are actually running somewhere in the 12.5-14 range which may be just too much for the camera. I know it says 12v but put a voltage meter on it yourself and see.